Sumiya

Was in Orchard Central looking for lunch on a weekend when I realised that Kuriya Penthouse (while Kuriya Dining has ceased operation at Raffles City Shopping Centre, you can still visit the branch at Great World City) and NUOC were no longer there. The latter, a joint venture between Modesto's group of restaurants and a Vietnamese partner, used to serve one of the better phõ in Singapore. Though it was a tad expensive, just like Annam Vietnamese Cuisine by Les Amis Group that has also closed. Located on the 12th floor now is Sumiya, literally translated in Japanese as "charcoal house" with a retro décor inspired by the Showa period. Depicting Japan in the 1950-80s, there are 3 sections in the 100-seater 6,500 sq ft space – 1950s garden with cook-it-yourself Japanese grill over water barrels, 1960s yokochos reminiscent of pubs in narrow alleys with old posters on zinc walls, 1970-80s izakaya with masks above a traditional Japanese drum near the entrance and copper crockery.

My dining companions and I ordered its lunch sets which came with smooth chawanmushi, fresh sashimi of the day and miso soup (except for ramen and udon). And a choice of char-grilled beef, chicken, pork belly, bacon-wrapped eringi mushroom or saba mackeral with salt. These skewers, served with lemon or lime and lotus root too dry and hard for our liking, had a smoky smell and taste with succulent meat. I had katsu curry rice or deep-fried breaded pork cutlet with beef curry – nothing impressive and no wonder this Japanese charcoal grill izakaya was almost empty. Portions were huge and Asahi draft beer is cheap but not sure how long it can last with competition from the 8th floor where Shabu Sai has all-you-can-eat shabu-shabu and sukiyaki buffet at about the same price as Sumiya's lunch sets and Kiseki Japanese Buffet Restaurant, though more expensive, provides more variety and both offer unlimited servings which big eaters will appreciate.

Update: The restaurant has moved to Suntec City.