Tai Cheong Bakery

Have wanted to try Tai Cheong Bakery's first cha chan teng since it opened in Singapore 2 years ago but only managed to finally get round to it recently. This is the Hong Kong brand's first foray into dine-in concept since its first bakery at Lyndhurst Terrace more than 60 years ago. Was in the area on a weekday when we decided to have an early dinner. Located at Holland Village, it has both indoor air-conditioned and outdoor dining area. There are a few tables in the former and we were fortunate to be seated inside. One of my dining companions ordered beef brisket curry rice while another had scrambled egg with chicken chop, choosing po lo bao over toast. Was surprised when the latter arrived as the portion was huge, definitely not a simple breakfast. The omelette was silky smooth, soft and moist while the po lo bao was fluffy like a pillow. And the chicken chop was crispy on the outside, juicy and tender on the inside.

I had instant noodles in chicken (you can choose tomato too) soup with three eggs and ham. Loved the sunny side up though three yolks are too much even for an egg-lover like me, and could neither rave about the fried strips of luncheon meat nor fault the fork-tender beef brisket that had supposedly been braised for a good six hours. We also shared a cup of yuan yang – a good balance between coffee, tea and milk. However, it was not to my liking as I prefer mine to have a tad more coffee and less milk. Though the bakery is well-known for its egg tarts, we did not order it this time since we have tried the ones from this branch and Hong Kong (check out my post on What and Where to Eat in Hong Kong) before. Overall, it was a pleasant meal that was not too salty.

What and Where to Eat in Hong Kong (Part I)

Do not leave Hong Kong without eating at a cha chan teng or dai pai dong. The former can be found everywhere while there are only a handful of the latter left as the government stopped issuing licenses for them due to congestion and hygiene problems. Both, and cooked food centres similar to our hawker centres, sell anything from po lo bao to cart noodles (or instant noodles with egg, ham/luncheon meat/sausage) and rice. In Singapore, we may have shared table with strangers at a coffeeshop, food court or hawker centre. But here, it is normal to be seated with strangers at restaurants especially at crowded places. Now…what should you eat in this former British Colony that justifies the almost-four-hours flight? Having been here a couple of times over the last few years, these are my recommendations:

Whisk

The first time I saw Whisk, it was in the final stages of renovation works. That was more than a year ago. On a recent weekend, we decided to drop by for afternoon tea. Located within the Tiong Bahru estate enclave, the café is a few steps away from Drips Bakery Café on Seng Poh Road and sits at the junction with Eng Hoon Street where The Orange Thimble and Tiong Bahru Bakery are. Stepping in, I was greeted by a display of pastries and cakes. Except for a black piano, wooden stools and dark-coloured chairs against pale wooden floor, the place is all white – counter top, tables, (tiled) walls and ceiling. Sweetness of torched meringue, which was a tad mushy, on top of the lemon tart was balanced by the tangy lemon curd. Could not rave about the strawberry shortcake nor fault the cappuccino and hot chocolate while the espresso had a faint aroma of roasted beans, was medium-bodied and too acidic for my liking. None of us were impressed with its food, drinks and lack of service.

Henri Charpentier

After a picnic at Singapore Botanic Gardens on a weekend evening, we decided to go Dempsey Hill for a cuppa coffee and/or desserts. In the end, we settled on Henri Charpentier – a renowned French-inspired Japanese patisserie since 1969. Run by Suzette Corporation, this is its first foray outside Japan where there are 82 branches. Opened last year, the 4,400 sq ft place restaurant was quiet when we visited. Walking down a covered walkway with fuschia carpet, we stepped into an extravagantly furnished place decked in royalty purple and more fuschia. Chandeliers and drapery hanging from the ceiling, together with comfortable armchairs and couches on heavily carpeted floor, screamed lavish opulence. I started with Blend Coffee while the rest mostly had Royal Milk Tea.

Patisserie G

My dining companion and I were at Millenia Walk over the weekend when we chanced upon a signboard which reads "eggs until 4pm daily". Prominently displayed outside Patisserie G, opened by Gwen Lim, and known for its desserts. There was an available table or two, so we decided to step in. Lots of wood could be seen – from the tables and chairs (was that Atomi's Hiroshima by Maruni?) to counters, shelves and flooring. Ordered scrambled eggs en cocotte with pork sausage, mushrooms and chose butter croissant over toasted brioche. Could neither rave about the three creamy scrambled freedom range eggs nor fault the sausage. While the sautéed mushrooms were lovely, it paled in comparison to the croissant. Its buttery crust was so crispy and flaky with a soft, airy and fluffy inside that I could eat it on its own. And not stop until it was gone.

Traditional Bakeries

Part of the NUS Arts Festival 2014, Moveable Feasts is a visual arts exhibition that took place from 14 to 28 Mar at the University Culture Centre. The combined efforts of about 20 attempted to trace the changes of food in Singapore over the years and remember history (or to leave a memory of today for the future generation) through photographs. It revolved around the diversity of local breakfast, our love for spice in chilli crabs and laksa as well as preserving traditional bakeries, desserts and nonya kuehs. 

The boss of this traditional bakery at Whampoa Drive, off Balestier Road, was not around when we visited on Saturday morning. But we spy the same brown breads in plastic containers, seen in neighbourhood coffeeshops where kaya toasts are served with half-boiled eggs and coffee or tea.

Artisan Boulangerie Compagnie Revisited

A few months ago when I visited Artisan Boulangerie Compagnie at Killiney Road, only knew a second one was due to open in Great World City at the end of the year. It opened in October while the following month, another opened at The Metropolis. In December, two more opened at Asia Square Tower 2 and VivoCity. Looks like this French bakery led by award-winning baker Eran Mayer is set to stay. So how does it compare to Paul (also French), Japanese's Maison Kayser, Korean's Paris Baguette and local Tiong Bahru Bakery?

Tiong Bahru Bakery

An artisan bakery by French baker Gontran Cherrier has been a hit since it first opened in the Tiong Bahru neighbourhood. By Spa Espirit Group which also owns Kiasu Espresso, it now has two more branches at Raffles City Shopping Centre and Tangs Orchard. Serving what some claim to be the best croissant in town, I left the bakery-café without buying anything as it did not look light and flaky. Then one day, someone who was in the area and heard how good the croissant was bought it for me. I was not impressed by its unevenly risen dough and lamented how the croissant (better ones can be found at Maison Kayser and Paris Baguette) could not make it. Was told its squid ink bun, chocolate croissant and kouign aman were good. The latter, also highly recommended by staff, is Breton's cake with salted butter and sugar. So I thought to myself that maybe I should try other items.

New Kid on the Block – Bécasse Bakery

Australian Bécasse Bakery finally opened in Singapore two weeks ago; half a year after it was due to do so. Brought in by jones the grocer, which acquired the bakery as well as burger joint Charlie & Co. from The North Group, its first outlet is located at the atrium on the 4th floor of Ion Orchard outside the entrance to Magosaburou. Charlie & Co. opened at B4 of the same shopping mall in January this year and both used to be part of The North Group, owned by Australian celebrity chef Justin North and his wife Georgia, that went into voluntary administration in June last year. According to the website, its French-style pastries and breads are baked in-house using traditional artisan methods with premium ingredients. And the new contemporary bakery is within walking distance to overseas offshoots of well-known bakeries, boulangeries and patisseries such as Japanese's Maison Kayser at Wheelock Place, Korean's Paris Baguette at Wisma Atria and French's Paul at Takashimaya.

New Kid on the Block – Artisan Boulangerie Compagnie

After a night of supporting the Sundown Ultramarathon at East Coast Park, all I wanted was to head back for a hot shower and good sleep but I was outnumbered. One had been raving so much about Tim Ho Wan's Baked Buns with BBQ Pork that another was eager to try the world's cheapest Michelin-starred restaurant. Though the queue was expected to be long on Sunday mornings perfect for yum cha, we decided to try our luck at Plaza Singapura's branch. Waiting time of 75 minutes was too much especially for the sleep-deprived, so we left and were driving along Killiney Road when I recalled that a new French bakery had opened. A quick check for its name and address, availability of a parking lot and a table meant we were destined to dine at Artisan Boulangerie Compagnie. Opened on 26 Aug and run by mover and shaker of the baking world Eran Mayer, it is owned by The Zest Group – an F&B company which also invests in brands such as Twelve Cupcakes.

Paul

More than a year since Paul opened on the 3rd floor of Ngee Ann City (better known as Takashimaya), queues could still be seen at this French bakery café unlike Ladurée that opened two months ago. Both are owned by French company Holder Group but the latter in Singapore only has a counter and a boutique on the 1st and 2nd floor of the same shopping mall. My 1st experience with Paul was in France and fond memories of its tarts and sandwiches meant I had them more than once during my Europe trip. In fact, was happy to see it in Kobe while on holiday except I was then looking for a place to eat Kobe beef. Visited the boulangerie / patisserie a few times in Singapore when the queue was short, so the wait time was still reasonable but I haven't had the chance to sit by the window yet. Could see splatters of gold against dark wood in the brightly-lit (with sunlight streaming in, ceiling chandeliers and wall lamps) place with comfortable seats and simple yet lovely table set-up.

Maison Kayser Revisited

After lovely dine-in and takeaway experiences at Scotts Square's Maison Kayser, I decided to visit the branch at Wheelock Place. Located at B2 beside Nam Nam Noodle Bar, it is just across Paterson Link from Ion Orchard where Marks & Spencer used to be. My order of Original Blend Coffee had a nice aroma of roasted beans and was bitter with muted acidity. Neither too strong nor light, it was good enough sans condiments and served with Financier – there was an aroma of butter, the taste of which I found too overwhelming. Lacking a crisp on the outside and an aroma possibly because the Pain Au Chocolat was cold, it was not as fluffy on the inside as its croissant that was named the best by Paris newspaper Le Figaro. Still airy and soft, the lightness was somehow missing. While the chocolate was sweet and rich, it was overall a tad disappointing. Unlike its Croissant Praline which still had the same nice texture, with the bonus of a smooth hazelnuts and praline cream reminiscent of Nutella.

Nassim Hill Bakery Bistro Bar

It was a lazy Saturday morning when we decided to have a late breakfast at Nassim Hill Bakery Bistro Bar. Saw a few empty tables as we walked into the bustling place but was told those were reserved and there were no available seats. Wondered aloud why others managed to reserve when its website clearly states that reservations are only accepted from 3pm onwards on Saturdays and Sundays. Staff however could not be bothered to explain or make an attempt to say, re-arrange the non-reserved tables. In fact, the service (except for that of the boss or manager in-charge) disgusted us so much that we would not be back. Especially since similar food choices could be found at nearby Dempsey, Hediard at Tudor Court and Benjamin Browns Bakery & Bistro at Forum The Shopping Mall. Most reviews raved about its bread from Freshly Baked by Le Bijoux but I could just visit the bakery itself at Killiney Road, couldn't I?

Modern Asian Diner

Collaboration between Tung Lok Group, Dick Lee, Bakerzin, Bar Stories and Top Wines led to Modern Asian Diner at The Grandstand (formerly known as Turf City). Abbreviated as MAD, the 5-in-1 concept combines dining, bakery, bar, wine and retail under one roof. On the lower floor with a door that leads outside is the sunlit bakery by Bakerzin, with displays of freshly-baked breads and pastries. Located near the taxi stand at South Grandstand with glass walls, it is simply furnished with concrete floor and lots of space between wooden tables and chairs. A yellow feature wall stood out against the neutral palette, except for a wall with colourful polka dots. Climbed a few steps to the upper floor where the front and right walls were adorned by red cushioned booth seats, tables and walls. To the left is the bar, manned by mixologist from bespoke cocktail maker Bar Stories, with blue-lit boxes against black walls. In the middle were blue, brown and white rattan chairs.

Maison Kayser

According to its website, a new bread is created for every new bakery. And each shop has a unique layout and décor to reflect the neighbourhood, city and country. All breads, pastries and brioches are prepared using in-house techniques with an exclusive leaven followed by slow kneading and long (traditional and natural) fermentation before they are shaped by hand and baked on-site daily. Quoting Chef Eric Kayser, "Good bread doesn't lie: it says everything about the quality of its ingredients and the know-how of its creator." Natural products, such as liquid leaven that offers a range of aromas devoid of acidity, are used as far as possible at every step in production. In fact, butter is tailor-made with a dairy producer in Japan just so the croissant can be as good as those in France. To meet demand, new openings in Japan had to limit every customer to no more than two croissants each. Such success meant I had to try Maison Kayser when it came to our shores.

Paris Baguette

Seems it is not just the local coffee scene that is booming but also the bakery scene with Tiong Bahru Bakery and Drips Bakery opening their 2nd branches at Raffles City Shopping Centre and along Sunset Way respectively. Within walking distance from French's Paul bakery at Takashimaya and Japanese's Maison Kayser at Scotts Square, is Korean's Paris Baguette at Wisma Atria. Brought in by SPC Group with more than 3,000 outlets in Korea, this is its 1st concept merging the bakery's offerings with menu items from upmarket restaurant Passion 5 in Seoul. The 24-year-old European-style Korean bakery chain also has presence in China, the United States and Vietnam. Do not be misled by the stand with a menu near its front (no entrance to speak of since the café is not enclosed with passers-by gawking at you eat) as customers are supposed to find their own seats. This involves Lady Luck shining on the right table and breathing down others' neck while waiting, no different from a food court.