Sushi Ichi

When I read that Sushi Ichi has been awarded the prestigious Michelin Star award in Singapore Business Review, I knew I had to try the restaurant hailing from Ginza in Tokyo. Located on the 2nd floor of Scotts Square, it boosts lots of wood against a cream palette typical of Japanese interior design. According to the website, its Noren curtain at the entrance features dye and weaving techniques passed down from ancient Japan. Was there for lunch on a weekday and stepping in, we were warmly greeted by staff and seated at a sushi counter behind which a seasonal flower arrangement stood out. This and the tiny vase of each chopstick holder holding a stalk of different flower are aspects of ikebana included in Kyo-ryori that goes beyond mere eating. In fact, Kyoto Kaiseki Ryori evolved from traditional tea ceremony and comprises small food portions served with bitter tea. Other details include hexagonal Cyprus chopsticks and beautiful ceramic tableware.

My dining companion ordered a Tsubaki set while I had the Sakura set, the former with one more assorted dish and the latter with sashimi and two more nigiri sushi. Sweet carrot and radish shreds in vinegar atop raw fresh fish slices lived up to its name as an appetiser. Following this were exquisite dishes – a crab soup with greens served in transparent glass with cover, a plate of snail with seasonal Japanese vegetable and fish cake among others, a chawanmushi with fish skin on top of jelly broth. Next was fresh and sweet sashimi of red snapper and crunchy ark shell served with soy sauce and wasabi freshly ground in front of us by the chef. Then, it was a plate of roes rolled in sea kelp, the same vegetable my dining companion ate earlier, bamboo shoot, arrowhead stem, white bait, carrot and succulent prawn. Found the yam ball surprisingly good and loved how taste of the grilled sea bream was accentuated by salt though I have never really liked both yam and sea bream.

After the last sashimi of yummy melt-in-the-mouth fatty tuna belly, the condiments were replaced by young ginger very thinly sliced (again in front of us by the chef). A finger towel was also placed beside the hand towel given as soon as we sat down. Both were in preparation for the nigiri sushi including yellow tail, marinated tuna reminiscent of smoked tuna and sea (not the usual river) eel as well as tuna and Japanese cucumber rolls. There was no need for more condiments as wasabi was included between the rice and fish, on which the chef had dabbed soy sauce. So customers could taste the freshness, natural flavour and sweetness. Between sushi, we were served rice in a small bowl with a wooden spoon. It came with marinated raw fish slices, sea urchin and roes – such a delicate balance of taste and texture that I could not stop until it was gone. The miso soup, looking no different from others, contained clams and this was one of the rare times I finished it.

Dessert was matcha ice-cream with azuki beans for my dining companion. Mine was a mango pudding, cantaloupe and lime sorbet with azuki paste, berries and white chocolate mousse. An intimate dining experience with only 24 seats, and an authentic one that reminded me of the tempura restaurant off Osaka I went to. Fresh quality seafood skilfully sliced and presented with meticulous service by friendly staff and chef. They not only patiently explained the ingredients to us and recommended how to relish each dish, but were also quick to refill or change our tea cups and top up ginger slices as and when we finished those on our plates. Being the last to arrive, we were the only remaining customers near its closing time. However, we were not rushed at any point during the meal. Neither did we felt compelled to hurry through. These are what I expect from a fine-dining restaurant and here, I was not disappointed. Thumbs-up for the lovely experience!

Update: The restaurant has moved to Singapore Marriott Tang Plaza Hotel.