Modern Asian Diner

Collaboration between Tung Lok Group, Dick Lee, Bakerzin, Bar Stories and Top Wines led to Modern Asian Diner at The Grandstand (formerly known as Turf City). Abbreviated as MAD, the 5-in-1 concept combines dining, bakery, bar, wine and retail under one roof. On the lower floor with a door that leads outside is the sunlit bakery by Bakerzin, with displays of freshly-baked breads and pastries. Located near the taxi stand at South Grandstand with glass walls, it is simply furnished with concrete floor and lots of space between wooden tables and chairs. A yellow feature wall stood out against the neutral palette, except for a wall with colourful polka dots. Climbed a few steps to the upper floor where the front and right walls were adorned by red cushioned booth seats, tables and walls. To the left is the bar, manned by mixologist from bespoke cocktail maker Bar Stories, with blue-lit boxes against black walls. In the middle were blue, brown and white rattan chairs.

Staff was quick to check if diners have visited MAD before and patiently explained to first-timers how to order their food and drinks through the iPad, which is cable-locked to every table. Asian and Western cuisine are included in the menu, with up to 30 different types of authentic dim sum (and no, I did not see any old school dim sum trolleys). I gave the tapas and Spanish mains a miss though they were prepared using charcoal-powered Josper Oven to enhance the flavours of meats and seafood by sealing in their juices. First to arrive was the steamed prawn dumpling and though the prawns were succulent, its skin was too thick and chewy for my liking. Next was the steamed scallop and mushroom siew mai and this time, the skin was thin. Could not taste any scallop in the fillings but loved how the mushroom accentuated its overall taste and fresh prawns broke the monotony of having only meat. Average steamed dim sum atypical of Tung Lok standards.

This was followed by pan-fried yam carrot cake – strips of yam atop carrot cake with dried shrimps and preserved meat. It was too oily and a tad soft but salvaged by spicy chilli. Then, I ate crispy barbeque pork pastry that was not crispy with fillings I could neither fault nor rave about. After lack-lustre pan-fried dim sum, I had chilled mango sago and pomelo with miserable quantities of fruits and no signs of sago. The sweet mango bits cut smaller than cubes were well-balanced by tart pomelo. Nothing fantastic though and ended the disappointing meal with an espresso machhiato. There was a nice aroma of roasted beans in the smooth but bitter and acidic cuppa. Passed by an Omakase counter, a wine shop and tasting room by wine specialist Top Wines and a retail gallery on my way out from the entrance on the upper floor to the inside of The Grandstand. By the way, Maison Kayser, Omakase Burger and Pies & Coffee are also at this out-of-the-way location.

Update: The restaurant has closed and in its place is Dancing Crab.