L'Atelier de Joël Robuchon

Organised and compiled by William Reed Media, Asia's 50 Best Restaurants collate votes of The World's 50 Best Restaurants Academy – an influential group of more than 900 international leaders in the restaurant industry, each selected for their expert opinion of the international restaurant scene. Ranked No. 24 on 2013's list is L'Atelier De Joël Robuchon, Singapore. Located on the 1st floor of Hotel Michael at Resorts World™ Sentosa, it is on the left of its entrance shared with fine-dining Joël Robuchon Restaurant on the right. It was a weekday evening when my dining companion and I visited the more casual L'Atelier de Joel Robuchon with counter seats around an open-concept kitchen, and a few tables in the main dining area.

Stepping into the dimly-lit French place decked in red and black furnishings, we were led past a bar with chaise lounge seats to red leather high chairs with half-back rest where we could watch the chefs at work. Did not order from the degustation menu as we were not very hungry at that time, and I settled for two tasting portions instead of a main course. First to arrive were butter and lovely breads in a "basket", which I dipped in the olive oil and vinaigrette I requested for. L'Amuse-bouche was an unusually big portion of quiche that we were full looking at, and Foie Gras Custard with Red Porto Wine and Parmesan Foam. Was served La Crevette – Prawn Tsukune in shimeji consommé, after staff was informed of our respective dietary restrictions that we forgot to mention earlier (it also slipped their mind to ask).

Started with appetisers of Le Crabe and Le Foie Gras, the former being king crab in a sweet and sour sauce between thin layers of turnips. Both were exquisitely presented with a delicate balance of taste and texture though I still prefer chilli and white pepper crab, and have had better seared duck foie gras elsewhere. While I would not rave about the caramelised quail in La Caille, could not say the same of the smooth mashed potatoes. Just like the ones I had next door, it was the best I have ever eaten and still is. The best dish I had here was Le Cochon de Lait, roasted suckling pig on stewed green cabbage. Loved its crackling-crispy paper-thin skin and how the tender meat was well-balanced by the right amount of melt-in-the-mouth fats to accentuate without overwhelming. Instead of petit four, warm madeleine in aluminium baking tin was served with coffee or tea.