New Kid on the Block – La Cantine

Having tried &Made by Bruno Ménard, I just had to try La Cantine fronted by the same 3-Michelin starred chef at Asia Square. A week after the French restaurant officially opened on 18 Sep, it looked empty when I reached just before 6pm. With staff huddled over a discussion at a corner, I wondered if it was opened for business. As I stepped in, was asked if I had any reservations. I did not and was told the place was fully booked unless I did not mind sitting at the bar counter. Not the most ideal for dinner, I asked if I could be accommodated at a table reserved for 8pm as I would be done in an hour or so. Restaurant manager Emmanuel Costenoble was very kind to arrange that and offered me his namecard, saying that I should call him on his mobile for seats in future.

Since the kitchen would only be ready in a few minutes, I asked about its happy hour promotion – house pour, beer bottles and draught beer pint. Was recommended Santis Kistal, an organic Swiss draught also offered at &Made at Pacific Plaza, but decided against a pint lest I would be too full to enjoy my main course. Thought it would go well with the four small but thick pieces of Caramelized Pork Belly – skin sweet with a charred aroma, meat tender and juicy interlaced with minimum melt-in-the-mouth fats. The mix green and herbs on the side were sweet or bitter depending on the type of vegetables, its raw taste delicately balanced with a tangy dressing that tasted like balsamic vinegar. And the potato purée was smooth with an aroma of the roasted garlic bits on top.

Complimentary bread was served though the dining concept was more casual than fine dining. It came in a basket with a cube of what I believed to be herbal butter, which I declined. Staff was quick to ask if I would like olive oil with my bread instead. Awesome! Soft and fluffy on the inside, the warm multi-grain baguette slices had a nice crisp crust that some might find a tad hard. Could hear the crunch with every bite and smell the aroma of roasted nuts and sesame seeds. Dipped in olive oil to accentuate its sweetness without being overwhelming, it was so delicious that I finished all four pieces. Seeing that the basket was empty, staff was prompt to ask if I would like more bread. Being the only customer at that time, I had no complaints about its service.

More upscale than its sister establishment, there were lots of gold that screamed lavish opulence with splatters of red in metal counter seats and placemats on wooden tables. In place of chandeliers fitting for the extravagantly furnished place, were wooden lamp shades carved to represent upside-down architectures. Other Asian touches through intricate carvings on wood were behind the bar counter, on table legs and a folding door that could be closed to offer privacy for a table of ten. Opened by Deliciae Hospitality Management whose director Olivier Bendel described as "a brasserie with a bit more", I would be back to try other items on the menu. Another restaurant owned by the rapidly expanding group that I have always wanted to try is Italian fine dining spot Forlino at One Fullerton.

Update: The restaurant has closed.